NOT live from the south of France

Two years ago, I went to Cannes for the first time. It was the best festival experience I've ever had. WAY better than Sundance; better than festivals I've attended in Chicago, Texas, Massachusetts, Florida; better than any festival I've been to in New York; and even better than the International Doc Festival Amsterdam (although that fest is a close second).
Contrary to the crazy star-struck paparazzi image that tends to be the focus of mainstream coverage of the festival in the US, the heart and soul of Cannes is cinema. And not just any cinema, but global cinema. My visit there reaffirmed that the most exciting cinema in the world isn't being made in the US. In fact, I saw almost 20 films with only one by an American director, and that one was one of the worst films I saw.

That's not to say we can't make good films here. But so often these days for whatever reason American films, mainstream and otherwise, tend to feel like they've all come from one mold. There's a sameness to the storytelling and to the stories themselves that leaves one fearing that maybe there are no new ways to tell stories. Admittedly even at Cannes things can start to feel stale. The advent of "slow cinema", which coincidentally or not has become a topic of discussion lately, is feeling like a sign of laziness in some quarters. But personally I'll take a long static take any day over a nausea-inducing mumble-cam.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Cannes is the fact that, while its heart and soul is cinema, its gut is the movie business. The sprawling Marché Du Film is the world's largest movie trade show, and while the celebrities pose on the red carpet and the cineastes stroke their chins, the real deals are happening down in the basement of the Palais. The contrast is about as stark as possible, and somehow the lack of pretention down there creates a perfect balance with the high-minded goings-on in the Salle DeBussy and Grand Theatre Lumiere.
I've yearned to go back to the Croisette since my first trip, but I'm not there this year and probably won't be back unless (fingers crossed) something I'm involved with ends up there down the line. I'm happy to know two people with projects at Cannes this year. A fellow editor, who got his start about the same time I did, cut a film that's already getting good reviews after its premiere on Sunday. And another friend has a short she produced premiering later this week in the Critics Week sidebar.
Since it's technically an industry event, you don't buy tickets like you do at most film festivals. Instead it's all about accreditation, and once that's secured, getting into most screenings is just a matter of getting in line early enough (the exception being the nightly formal premieres which are invite-only and require a few more connections.)
When I went in 2008, I felt like one of the few tweeting initial reactions to the films as I saw them, but now there are dozens of people tweeting not only the films but the parties, events and everything else happening on the Croisette. So thankfully it's easier than ever to enjoy some aspects of the festival vicariously. And as far as actually seeing the films, there's always the New York Film Festival which could be considered the Cannes "best of" festival (not counting all the fun of the Marché, of course...)
For those interested, here are my favorite resources for staying on top of Cannes from afar:
- The Daily Notebook from The Auteurs... er... I mean MUBI
- LA Times 24 Frames blog (with daily video recaps with "At the Movies" co-host Michael Philips)
- ScreenDaily in Cannes (outside the paywall for the time being)
- France24's daily English-language Cannes videos
- indieWIRE's exhaustive coverage (including what's happening in the Marché should you be curious)
- Canal+ Cannes page (all in French and heavy on the glitz and glamour)
- My Twitter list of film tweeters, which is very Cannes heavy at the moment




